Tag Archives: italian

14th Century: stole

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The stole

2nd quarter of the 14th century, Italian

Item Link at Vienna Art History Museum

Textile; yellow silk: Louisine, patterned with black silk (eagle) and gold threads, pearls, gold-plated silver appliqués with granulation, pit-enamel in silver, cell-enamel in gold, glass stones

L. 599 – 602 cm, W. 21 – 23 cm

The stole is sewn together from a total of eight different sized pieces of the same gold-woven fabric. Most of the black silk eagles have disappeared, leaving only their round medallions framed with double rows of pearls. These alternate with a total of 68 appliqués made of gold-plated silver, which, like the long sides of the stole, are bordered by double pearl cords. All pearl cords and most of the appliqués are lined with parchment to protect the precious silk fabric. The enamels in the appliqués lie on several layers of precisely cut, written paper, which can be dated to the 14th century based on the characters. The stole appears to have been made based on the model of the probably damaged Norman predecessor (or a Hohenstaufen intermediate) – possibly for Louis the Bavarian. What is remarkable is its excessive length, which does not allow it to be worn like a liturgical stole. It therefore appears to have been modeled on the loros worn by the Byzantine emperor – imitated by the Normans in their garb. With the help of mosaic depictions of Roger II and William II in Palermo, the traditional way of wearing the loros wrapped around the shoulder and hip can be reconstructed, which also solves the mystery of the various pieces from which the Viennese stole is sewn together . When sewing these pieces together, attention was paid to the alignment of the eagles so that they always stand upright when wrapped correctly. In any case, the memory of the imperial sash seems to have soon been lost; The stole was equated with that of the priest’s regalia and was worn crossed over the chest despite being too long.

Currently issued: Imperial Treasury ViennaRoom 10

IMAGE RIGHTS Vienna Art History Museum, Secular Treasury

INV. NO.Treasury, WS XIII 8

 

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14th Century Stole (detail) 14th Century: Mitre of St. Isidoro 13th Century: possible stole end 14th Century: San Lorenzo Mitre 13th Century: Stole 14th Century: Amalfi Mitre 14th Century: Nola Mitre 14th Century: Borders with brakteats and plaques 14th Century: Chausable Edging 15th Century: Minden Mitre 14th Century: Altar Edging 12th Century: Roger II Dalmatic 15th Century: The Linköping Mitre 14th Century: Cope 14th Century: Marienwerder Cope

13th Century: Fredrick II Gloves

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Gloves of the Holy Roman Emperor, Frederick II

Early 13th century, before 1220
Vienna, Weltliche Schatzkammer

Circumference of the wrist opening: 24 (25) cm Length from the wrist to the point of the middle finger: 25.5 (27) cm

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OBJECT LOCATION: Imperial Treasury Vienna, room 10

OBJECT LABEL Textile; liturgical garment; coronation regalia

CULTURE; PalermoDATING; before 1220

DIMENSIONS; L. 26.3 or 27.7 cm, W. 12 cm

INVENTORY NO. Treasury, WS XIII 11

Some Images kindly provided by Prof Michael Greenhalgh, and Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna, Secular Treasury

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13th Century: Shoes of the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II 12th Century: Roger II Dalmatic 13th Century: Cap, belt, cote, mantle, surcote and other fragments of Fernando de la Certa 13th Century: mantel 13th Century: Halberstadt Mitre 13th Century: Ciborium/Ziborium (Host Box) 13th Century: Halberstadt Antependium 13th Century: German Panels 12th Century: Alb of William II of Sicily, 1153-1189 13th Century: Orphrey, 1220-1224 12th Century: Roger II Coronation Mantle 11th Century: reliquary cross 13th Century: Cap of Alfonso X 17th Century: waxblossed reliquary figures 17th Century: Hungarian wedding dress

14th Century: Mitre of St. Isidoro

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Mitre of Saint Isidoro

Embroidered with gold, pearls and precious stones 14th century, Bologna
Museo Davia Bargellini.

Mitra di s. Isidoro, ricamo in oro, perle e pietre preziose, 14th century, Bologna, Museo Davia Bargellini.

Showing at the Complex of the Seven Churches in Bologna, Italy.

Photos below graciously provided by Alison Petrisek of Running With Scissors:

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14th Century: Amalfi Mitre 14th Century: San Lorenzo Mitre 14th Century: Nola Mitre 15th Century: Minden Mitre 16th Century: Russian Mitre 15th Century: Kreuzlingen Mitre 15th Century: Montecassino mitre 14th Century: Chausable Edging 14th Century Stole (detail) 13th Century: Halberstadt Mitre 14th Century: Altar Edging 15th Century: Halberstadt mitre with four saints 14th Century: Cope 14th Century: Marienwerder Cope 14th Century: Sudarium with Spangles

16th Century: Ventian purse

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Translation via Google Translate:

Purse

Venice, end of the 16th century.
13x8x6 cm.

Cut velvet dark green silk embroidered in silver-gilt and silver yarn and curly, pearls, the application technique, the technique of blue silk satin stitch, silver sequins. Suspension and borders in gilt silver cord twisted yarn. Pink taffeta lining. The bag, unusual shape, could fulfill most uses: purses, comosuggests chuisa front pocket with a cord, door dust orportaprofumi. Wisely suspended the waist of the dress, very much in vogue, the ‘bag-shaped lute “and very valuable both for the quality of the embroidery and the richness of the materials for setting stistica.The plant motifs that adorn every part of the accessory are made with grace and richness of details highlighted by the many pearls placed in various parts in order to highlight the preziosita. This refined accessory, which certainly emphasized the sumptuousness of a ceremonial dress, it was probably a gift love, how can suggest two hearts pierced by two arrows, according to a custom widespread in the Renaissance.

The original description, in Italian:

BORSA

Venezia, fine del XVI secolo.
Cm. 13x8x6

Velluto tagliato di seta verde scuro ricamato in argento dorato e argento filato e riccio, perle, nella tecnica di applicazione; seta azzurra nella tecnica del punto raso; pailettes d’argento. Sospensione e bordure in cordoncino intrecciato d’argento dorato filato. Fodera in taffetas rosa acceso. La borsa, forma insolita, poteva assolvere a piu usi: portamonete, como suggerisce la tasca anteriore chuisa da un cordoncino, porta polveri o portaprofumi. Sapientemente sospesa alla cintura dell’abito, come imponeva la moda, la “borsetta a forma di liuto” e alquanto preziosa sia per la qualita del ricamo e la richezza dei materiali che per l’impostazione stistica. I motivi fitomorfi che ornano ogni parte dell’accessorio sono stati realizzati con grazia e ricchezza di particolari evidenziati dalle numerose perle collocate in varie parti per sottolinearne la preziosita.Questo raffinatissimo accessorio, che certo ribadiva la sontuosita di un abito cerimoniale, probabilmente era un dono d’amore, come possono suggerire i due cuori trafitti da due frecce, secondo un’usanza molto diffusa nell’epoca rinascimentale.

© I Mestieri della moda a Venezia dal XIII al XVIII Secolo. Ala Napoleonica E Museo Correr, Venice. 1988.

 

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16th Century: Pearled Panel

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PALIOTTO, detail Sicily, about 1520-1540
Palermo, Cathedral Treasury Detail: 21 x 34 cm.

Velvet with applied work of pearls and gold embroidery; gold ornaments of the 13th century. Figures and foliage scrolls in couched work with applied pearls; gold threads laid in pairs, gold cords for the outlines. Faces embroidered with silk. The paliotto was a gift from Archbishop Jean Carandelet (1520-1544)

Lit.: E. Steingraber, Antique Jewelry, London 1957, p. 40.

Source: Schuette, Marie and Sigrid Muller-Christensen: Pictorial History of Embroidery ; NY: Frederick Praeger, 1964

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16th Century: The Annunciation 16th C Pearled Panels 14th Century: Marienwerder Antependium 16th Century: Ventian purse 14th Century: Borders with brakteats and plaques 16th Century: Russian Mitre 16th: Drawstring Bag 15th Century: Lamb Of God 16th Century: Beaded Portrait 13th Century: Halberstadt Antependium 16th Century: Russian Mitre 16th Century: Beaded Book 17th Century: waxblossed reliquary figures 11th Century: reliquary cross 11th Century: Reliquary Bag with plaques and pearls

14th Century: Nola Mitre

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“Mitre” – Sienese and Southern Italian Goldsmiths, about 1330-1355 – Nola, Cathedral – Angevin Naples – Temporary exhibition – Museum of the Treasure of Saint January in Naples

Color Pictures via flickr user *Karl* – clicking will take you to the pic

 

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14th Century: Amalfi Mitre

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Mitre – Amalfi, Museo Diocesano – Neapolitan Workmanship – first quater of the 14th century – Pearls and golden plates with precious stones – Angevin Naples – Temporary exhibition – Museum of the Treasure of  Saint January in Naples

Color Pictures via flickr user *Karl*

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14th Century: San Lorenzo Mitre

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BeadedMitre-fullMitre – Cathedral of San Lorenzo at Scala/Ravello – Southern Italian Goldsmiths – 13th-14th century – Red silk with pearls and golden plates with enamelled Apostles – Angevin Naples – Temporary exhibition – Museum of the Treasure of Saint January in Naples

Color Pictures via flickr user *Karl* – clicking will take you to the pic

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12th Century: Alb of William II of Sicily, 1153-1189

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Künstler: Palermo, Königliche Hofwerkstätten
Palermo, 1181 mit späteren Ergänzungen

Alb, garment worn for the coronation by Emperors of the Holy Roman Empire. Yellowish taffeta, gold trimming gold embroidery and pearls. Inscription says Alb was made for Norman King William II by the Royal workshop in Palermo, Sicily. 1181. Inv. XIII 7

Textil; liturgisches Gewand; Krönungsornat
Textil; Seide, Golddrahtstickerei, Perlen, Smaragde, Saphire, Amethyst, Spinell, Granat, Opal, Brettchengewebe
Translation: Silk, goldwork embroidery, pearls, Emerald, Sapphire, Amethyst, Spinel, Granat, woven strap (inkle?)
H. 154 cm, B. 127 cm

Inschrift:
“+OPERATV(M) FELICI VRBE PANORMI XV. ANNO D(OMI)NI W(ILLELMI) D(E)I GR(ATIA) REGIS SICILIE DVCAT(VS) APVLIE ET PRINCIPAT(VS) CAP(VE) FILII REGIS W(ILLELMI) INDICTIO(N)E XIIII.”; arabische Tulut-Schrift (Übersetzung s. Kat. Schatzkammer 1987)

Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien, Weltliche Schatzkammer

 

Alb of William II of Sicily (1153-1189).

The precious silk gown was used at the coronations of the kings and emperors of the Holy Roman Empire. There are Latin and Arabic inscriptions on the edge of the broad hem at the bottom. These tell us that the robe was created in Palermo under King William II in the year 1181. In 1194 the alb, along with the coronation robe (and the blue chasuble) was inherited by the Hohenstaufen dynasty and thus passed to the empire as part of the treasure of the Norman kings. Unlike the liturgical alb, the Alb was originally a royal outer garment.

Of particular importance, however, is the fact that on the Alb the embroidery on the cuffs executed in 1181 has been repaired, but the embroidery on the breast has been covered with younger embroidery executed around 1220.

The bottom border shows two motifs made in gold – pairs of confronted lions on white ground and pairs of confronted griffins on a purple ground fabric. Along the upper and lower border run a Latin and Arabic inscriptions indicating it was made for William II in the Royal Workshop of Sicily.

Materials included silk, gold wire embroidery, pearls, emeralds, sapphires, amethysts, spinells, garnets, opals, 154 cm long, 127 cm wide at the hem.

(Source: medieval.webcon.net.au via thegentlemanscloset.tumblr.com)

Alb of William II of Sicily (1153-1189).

The precious silk gown was used at the coronations of the kings and emperors of the Holy Roman Empire. There are Latin and Arabic inscriptions on the edge of the broad hem at the bottom. These tell us that the robe was created in Palermo under King William II in the year 1181. In 1194 the alb, along with the coronation robe (and the blue chasuble) was inherited by the Hohenstaufen dynasty and thus passed to the empire as part of the treasure of the Norman kings. Unlike the liturgical alb, the Alb was originally a royal outer garment.

Of particular importance, however, is the fact that on the Alb the embroidery on the cuffs executed in 1181 has been repaired, but the embroidery on the breast has been covered with younger embroidery executed around 1220.

The bottom border shows two motifs made in gold – pairs of confronted lions on white ground and pairs of confronted griffins on a purple ground fabric. Along the upper and lower border run a Latin and Arabic inscriptions indicating it was made for William II in the Royal Workshop of Sicily.

Materials included silk, gold wire embroidery, pearls, emeralds, sapphires, amethysts, spinells, garnets, opals, 154 cm long, 127 cm wide at the hem.

(Source: medieval.webcon.net.au)

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13th Century: Shoes of the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II

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https://www.khm.at/de/object/100434/

1220, Shoes of the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II
Kunsthistorische Museum, Vienna (Sicily, beginning of the 13th century)

More info @ Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna, Secular Treasury

Altered in Nuremberg between 1612 and 1619 Calf with red silk and gold edging; precious stones and pearls;L 25.5 cm and 26 cm each .¾

Like the gloves, these shoes were presumably made before 1220 for the Emperor Friedrich II.

  • OBJECT LABEL Textile; liturgical garment; coronation regalia
  • CULTURE German; Palermo (board fabric)
  • DATING 1612 – 1619; 12th / 13th century
  • MATERIALS/TECHNOLOGY Textile; Red samite, tablet fabric with gold thread, pearls, amethysts, sapphires, emeralds, antique glass stone; Sole: cow leather

  • DIMENSIONS H. 10.8 cm, L. 25.8 or 25.6 cm

  • Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna, Secular Treasury, INVENTORY # Treasury, WS XIII 13

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12th Century: Roger II Dalmatic

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DALMATIC , PART OF THE INSIGNIA OF THE HOLY ROMAN EMPIRE
Sicily, Palermo, Royal Workshop, 1130 – 1140, Period of King Roger II.
Viuenna, Weltliche Schatzkammer
Cuff: 21 cm wide.
Lower border: 21 cm wide

The robe has the shape of a tunicella with a narrow upper part, long sleeves that taper towards the edge and a skirt that expands towards the hem with side gussets.
Both the blue – with madder and Waid dyed – unbleached base fabric as well as the red, patterned trim of the hem and the cuffs is Samit (scratched silk). Above and below, the wide hem border is bounded by double pearl cords. Gold embroidery in sunk planting technique adorns this border with lilies and palmette shapes. The technical implementation of the embroidery is so close to that of the coronation mantle that one can assume a simultaneous emergence.
A special feature is the embroidery of the cuffs: pearl strings framing palmette motifs whose inner surfaces are filled with gold tubes, which were flattened after sewing. This technique is, as far as we know, unique. The lower edge of the cuffs are decorated with violin-shaped, densely juxtaposed appliqués with gathered cellular enamel, which are stylistically and technically so similar to the mounts on the coronation mantle that there is no doubt about a connection between the two garments.

The neckline of the robe is covered with a 3 cm wide Brettchenborte, which is contoured by means of individually sewn beads. This border is the same as it was sewed on the Alba.
For the first time clearly identifiable the robe appears as a “blue skirt” in a document of the year 1350, with the transfer of the treasury to Charles IV is confirmed, but may well in the mention of a “Rock of Samit” in the inventory of 1246 also already recognize the tunicella.
The tunicella was worn at the coronation under the Alba

Text From: http://www.khm.at/de/objektdb/detail/100470/

The dalmatic is of deep purple silk. The apparles illustrated, however, – a cuff and the lower border – are made of a silk material resembling that of the Coronation Mantle. The gold thread is underside couched, but on the cuff the gold is in the form of minute tubes with the couching thread passed through them. Pearls, gold plaques, enamels and filigree work. According to Fillitz the garment may belong to the same set of vestments as the Coronation Mantle.

Lit.: H. Fillitz, Die Insignien und Kleinodien des Heiligen Romischen Reiches. Vienna-Munich 1954, p. 58, Figs. 27, 28 – P. E. Schramm and F. Mutherich, Denkmale der deutschen Kinige und Kaiser, Munich 1962, p. 182, No. 181

Source: Schuette, Marie and Sigrid Muller-Christensen: Pictorial History of Embroidery ; NY: Frederick Praeger, 1964.

Deep Purple Silk Dalmatic of 1130-40
Cuff detail of the deep purple silk dalmatic of 1130-40 from the insignia of the Holy Roman Empire. It is a product of the royal workshops of Roger II in Palermo. Minute golden tubes fill the pearl motifs whilst the sumptuous effect is increased by the use of large coloured enamel motifs.

From: “Medieval Craftsmen: Embroiderers,” by Kay Staniland, University of Toronto Press, 1991, p. 46. ISBN: 0-8020-6915-0

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