Tag Archives: italian

13th Century: Fredrick II Gloves

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Gloves of the Holy Roman Emperor, Frederick II

Early 13th century, before 1220
Vienna, Weltliche Schatzkammer

Circumference of the wrist opening: 24 (25) cm Length from the wrist to the point of the middle finger: 25.5 (27) cm

Source: Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna, Secular Treasury

Textile; Red samite, gold embroidery, gold appliqués with cellular enamel, niello plates, pearls, rubies, sapphires, amethysts, garnets, spinels, corundums

The gloves, cut from red, unpatterned samite, are densely decorated on the backs of the hands. Gold tendrils, embroidered using the lay-on technique, fill the ground on which enamel plates, precious stones and pearls are fixed. A centrally arranged cell enamel applique in the form of a palmette is framed by pointed oval shields, each of which has a bird’s head. Between the heads, the left glove has a five-sided nielloed plate with the bust of an angel, which is probably a 14th-century addition. In the same place on the right glove is the remains of what was once a star-shaped enamel. Round enamels are attached to the roots of the index and ring fingers of both gloves, each depicting a one-tailed siren. The inner surfaces of both gloves, like the backs of the hands, are embroidered with gold tendrils using the donning technique. In addition, they show a single-headed eagle with a nimbus (halo), which is the heraldic symbol of the Hohenstaufen Empire. On the right glove, this embroidery has largely failed, so that the dark preliminary drawing of the motif is visible. A narrow border bordered at the top and bottom by double rows of pearls is attached to the lower edge of the gloves. Enamel plates, precious stones, gold embroidery and individually sewn-on pearls fill the red silk background. The enamels are stylistically related to the decoration of the scabbard of the ceremonial sword (inv. no. SK_WS_XIII_16) and the crown of Constance, the wife of Frederick II, kept in Palermo. The agreements support the assumption that that the gloves for the coronation of Frederick II were made in 1220. They are probably mentioned for the first time in the handover inventory from 1246, in which “two gloves with precious stones” are listed.

  • OBJECT LOCATION: Imperial Treasury Vienna, room 10
  • OBJECT LABEL Textile; liturgical garment; coronation regalia
  • CULTURE; Palermo
  • DATING; before 1220
  • DIMENSIONS; L. 26.3 or 27.7 cm, W. 12 cm
  • INVENTORY NO. Treasury, WS XIII 11

Source: Schuette, Marie and Sigrid Muller-Christensen: Pictorial History of Embroidery ; NY: Frederick Praeger, 1964.

Red silk. Gold embroidery in couched work. The back of the hand is rechley embroidered with pearls, rubies, sapphires and enamelled plawues (four of the latter have been lost and replaced by others). On the inner side, a single-headed nimbed eagle. The gloves were made in the Royal Workshops of Sicily for the Emperor Frederick II and were worn by him at his coronation in 1220.

Lit.: H. Fillitz, Die Insignien und Kleinodien des Heiligen, Romischen Reiches. Vienna- Munich 1954, p. 59, figs. 31, 32 – P. E. Schramm und F. Mutherich, Denkmale der deutschen Konige und Kaiser, Munich 1962, p. 190, No. 200

Some Images kindly provided by Prof Michael Greenhalgh, and Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna, Secular Treasury

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Related Items:

13th Century: Shoes of the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II 13th Century: Halberstadt Mitre 12th Century: Alb of William II of Sicily, 1153-1189 13th Century: Cap, belt, cote, mantle, surcote and other fragments of Fernando de la Certa 13th Century: Halberstadt Antependium 13th Century: German Panels 13th Century: Cap of Alfonso X 13th Century: Ciborium/Ziborium (Host Box) 12th Century: Roger II Dalmatic 13th Century: Orphrey 13th Century: Stole 13th Century: Reliquary hanging 14th Century: Amalfi Mitre 15th Century: Mantle of the Order of the Golden Fleece 16th Century: Pearled Panel

14th Century: Mitre of St. Isidoro

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Mitre of Saint Isidoro

Embroidered with gold, pearls and precious stones 14th century, Bologna
Museo Davia Bargellini.

Mitra di s. Isidoro, ricamo in oro, perle e pietre preziose, 14th century, Bologna, Museo Davia Bargellini.

Showing at the Complex of the Seven Churches in Bologna, Italy.

Photos below graciously provided by Alison Petrisek of Running With Scissors:

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16th Century: Ventian purse

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Translation via Google Translate:

Purse

Venice, end of the 16th century.
13x8x6 cm.

Cut velvet dark green silk embroidered in silver-gilt and silver yarn and curly, pearls, the application technique, the technique of blue silk satin stitch, silver sequins. Suspension and borders in gilt silver cord twisted yarn. Pink taffeta lining. The bag, unusual shape, could fulfill most uses: purses, comosuggests chuisa front pocket with a cord, door dust orportaprofumi. Wisely suspended the waist of the dress, very much in vogue, the ‘bag-shaped lute “and very valuable both for the quality of the embroidery and the richness of the materials for setting stistica.The plant motifs that adorn every part of the accessory are made with grace and richness of details highlighted by the many pearls placed in various parts in order to highlight the preziosita. This refined accessory, which certainly emphasized the sumptuousness of a ceremonial dress, it was probably a gift love, how can suggest two hearts pierced by two arrows, according to a custom widespread in the Renaissance.

The original description, in Italian:

BORSA

Venezia, fine del XVI secolo.
Cm. 13x8x6

Velluto tagliato di seta verde scuro ricamato in argento dorato e argento filato e riccio, perle, nella tecnica di applicazione; seta azzurra nella tecnica del punto raso; pailettes d’argento. Sospensione e bordure in cordoncino intrecciato d’argento dorato filato. Fodera in taffetas rosa acceso. La borsa, forma insolita, poteva assolvere a piu usi: portamonete, como suggerisce la tasca anteriore chuisa da un cordoncino, porta polveri o portaprofumi. Sapientemente sospesa alla cintura dell’abito, come imponeva la moda, la “borsetta a forma di liuto” e alquanto preziosa sia per la qualita del ricamo e la richezza dei materiali che per l’impostazione stistica. I motivi fitomorfi che ornano ogni parte dell’accessorio sono stati realizzati con grazia e ricchezza di particolari evidenziati dalle numerose perle collocate in varie parti per sottolinearne la preziosita.Questo raffinatissimo accessorio, che certo ribadiva la sontuosita di un abito cerimoniale, probabilmente era un dono d’amore, come possono suggerire i due cuori trafitti da due frecce, secondo un’usanza molto diffusa nell’epoca rinascimentale.

© I Mestieri della moda a Venezia dal XIII al XVIII Secolo. Ala Napoleonica E Museo Correr, Venice. 1988.

 

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16th Century: Pearled Panel

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PALIOTTO, detail Sicily, about 1520-1540
Palermo, Cathedral Treasury Detail: 21 x 34 cm.

Velvet with applied work of pearls and gold embroidery; gold ornaments of the 13th century. Figures and foliage scrolls in couched work with applied pearls; gold threads laid in pairs, gold cords for the outlines. Faces embroidered with silk. The paliotto was a gift from Archbishop Jean Carandelet (1520-1544)

Lit.: E. Steingraber, Antique Jewelry, London 1957, p. 40.

Source: Schuette, Marie and Sigrid Muller-Christensen: Pictorial History of Embroidery ; NY: Frederick Praeger, 1964

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14th Century: Nola Mitre

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“Mitre” – Sienese and Southern Italian Goldsmiths, about 1330-1355 – Nola, Cathedral – Angevin Naples – Temporary exhibition – Museum of the Treasure of Saint January in Naples

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Color Pictures via flickr user *Karl* – clicking will take you to the pic

 

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14th Century: Amalfi Mitre

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Mitre – Amalfi, Museo Diocesano – Neapolitan Workmanship – first quater of the 14th century – Pearls and golden plates with precious stones – Angevin Naples – Temporary exhibition – Museum of the Treasure of  Saint January in Naples

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Color Pictures via flickr user *Karl*

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14th Century: San Lorenzo Mitre

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BeadedMitre-fullMitre – Cathedral of San Lorenzo at Scala/Ravello – Southern Italian Goldsmiths – 13th-14th century – Red silk with pearls and golden plates with enamelled Apostles – Angevin Naples – Temporary exhibition – Museum of the Treasure of Saint January in Naples

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Color Pictures via flickr user *Karl* – clicking will take you to the pic

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12th Century: Alb of William II of Sicily, 1153-1189

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Künstler: Palermo, Königliche Hofwerkstätten
Palermo, 1181 mit späteren Ergänzungen

Alb, garment worn for the coronation by Emperors of the Holy Roman Empire. Yellowish taffeta, gold trimming gold embroidery and pearls. Inscription says Alb was made for Norman King William II by the Royal workshop in Palermo, Sicily. 1181. Inv. XIII 7

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Textil; liturgisches Gewand; Krönungsornat
Textil; Seide, Golddrahtstickerei, Perlen, Smaragde, Saphire, Amethyst, Spinell, Granat, Opal, Brettchengewebe
Translation: Silk, goldwork embroidery, pearls, Emerald, Sapphire, Amethyst, Spinel, Granat, woven strap (inkle?)
H. 154 cm, B. 127 cm

Inschrift:
“+OPERATV(M) FELICI VRBE PANORMI XV. ANNO D(OMI)NI W(ILLELMI) D(E)I GR(ATIA) REGIS SICILIE DVCAT(VS) APVLIE ET PRINCIPAT(VS) CAP(VE) FILII REGIS W(ILLELMI) INDICTIO(N)E XIIII.”; arabische Tulut-Schrift (Übersetzung s. Kat. Schatzkammer 1987)

Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien, Weltliche Schatzkammer

 

Alb of William II of Sicily (1153-1189).

The precious silk gown was used at the coronations of the kings and emperors of the Holy Roman Empire. There are Latin and Arabic inscriptions on the edge of the broad hem at the bottom. These tell us that the robe was created in Palermo under King William II in the year 1181. In 1194 the alb, along with the coronation robe (and the blue chasuble) was inherited by the Hohenstaufen dynasty and thus passed to the empire as part of the treasure of the Norman kings. Unlike the liturgical alb, the Alb was originally a royal outer garment.

Of particular importance, however, is the fact that on the Alb the embroidery on the cuffs executed in 1181 has been repaired, but the embroidery on the breast has been covered with younger embroidery executed around 1220.

The bottom border shows two motifs made in gold – pairs of confronted lions on white ground and pairs of confronted griffins on a purple ground fabric. Along the upper and lower border run a Latin and Arabic inscriptions indicating it was made for William II in the Royal Workshop of Sicily.

Materials included silk, gold wire embroidery, pearls, emeralds, sapphires, amethysts, spinells, garnets, opals, 154 cm long, 127 cm wide at the hem.

(Source: medieval.webcon.net.au via thegentlemanscloset.tumblr.com)

Alb of William II of Sicily (1153-1189).

The precious silk gown was used at the coronations of the kings and emperors of the Holy Roman Empire. There are Latin and Arabic inscriptions on the edge of the broad hem at the bottom. These tell us that the robe was created in Palermo under King William II in the year 1181. In 1194 the alb, along with the coronation robe (and the blue chasuble) was inherited by the Hohenstaufen dynasty and thus passed to the empire as part of the treasure of the Norman kings. Unlike the liturgical alb, the Alb was originally a royal outer garment.

Of particular importance, however, is the fact that on the Alb the embroidery on the cuffs executed in 1181 has been repaired, but the embroidery on the breast has been covered with younger embroidery executed around 1220.

The bottom border shows two motifs made in gold – pairs of confronted lions on white ground and pairs of confronted griffins on a purple ground fabric. Along the upper and lower border run a Latin and Arabic inscriptions indicating it was made for William II in the Royal Workshop of Sicily.

Materials included silk, gold wire embroidery, pearls, emeralds, sapphires, amethysts, spinells, garnets, opals, 154 cm long, 127 cm wide at the hem.

(Source: medieval.webcon.net.au)

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13th Century: Shoes of the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II

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https://www.khm.at/de/object/100434/

1220, Shoes of the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II
Kunsthistorische Museum, Vienna (Sicily, beginning of the 13th century)

More info @ Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna, Secular Treasury

Altered in Nuremberg between 1612 and 1619 Calf with red silk and gold edging; precious stones and pearls;L 25.5 cm and 26 cm each .¾

Like the gloves, these shoes were presumably made before 1220 for the Emperor Friedrich II.

  • OBJECT LABEL Textile; liturgical garment; coronation regalia
  • CULTURE German; Palermo (board fabric)
  • DATING 1612 – 1619; 12th / 13th century
  • MATERIALS/TECHNOLOGY Textile; Red samite, tablet fabric with gold thread, pearls, amethysts, sapphires, emeralds, antique glass stone; Sole: cow leather

  • DIMENSIONS H. 10.8 cm, L. 25.8 or 25.6 cm

  • Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna, Secular Treasury, INVENTORY # Treasury, WS XIII 13

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