Dating 2nd quarter of the 14th century
Earliest date 1325
Latest date 1350
The stole is sewn together from a total of eight different sized pieces of the same gold-weaved fabric. Most of the eagle designs were made of black silk, leaving only their round medallions framed with double rows of pearls. These alternate with a total of 68 appliqués in gold-plated sterling silver, which, like the long sides of the stole, are bordered by double pearl cords. All pearl strings and most of the appliqués are lined with parchment to protect the precious silk fabric. The emails in the appliques lie on several layers of precisely cut, described paper, which can be dated due to the characters in the 14th century.
The stole seems to have been modeled after the well-damaged Norman precursor (or a Hohenstaufen intermediate) – possibly made for Ludwig the Bavarian. Noteworthy is their excessive length, which does not allow them to wear like a liturgical stole. So she seems to have worked on the example of the Loro, which was carried by the Byzantine emperor – imitated by the Normans in their garb. With the help of mosaic representations of Roger II and Wilhelm II in Palermo, the traditional way of wearing Loros around the shoulders and hips can be reconstructed, which also solves the riddle of the various pieces from which the Viennese stole is sewn together , When stitching together these pieces, the orientation of the eagles was taken into consideration, so that they always stand upright with correct winding. In any case, the memory of the imperial sash soon seems to have been lost; the stole was equated with that of the priesthood and crossed over in spite of excess length on the chest.
Textile; liturgical garment; coronation; stole
Dimension L. 599 – 602 cm, B. 21 – 23 cmItalian
Textile; yellow silk: Louisine, patterned with black silk (eagle) and gold threads, pearls, gilded silver appliqués with granulation, mine enamel in silver, cell enamel enamels in gold, glass stones
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