A Needle’s Breadth Apart: The Unexplored Relationship Between Medieval Embroidery and Manuscript Illumination

By Valentina S . Grub

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Abstract

Medieval manuscript studies have been of increasing interest to the academe in recent years, and within the next year a book and an exhibition on opus anglicanum (English embroidery made between c. 1250-1350) are planned. Yet there has been little to no scholarship on how these two ‘minor arts’ intersect and interact. I am currently exploring records showing that there is evidence that some individuals were involved in both. In particular, mention of two nuns who were known as embroiderers and illuminators. I will look at both archival and artistic similarities, focusing on works between c. 1250-1350, when the English embroidery trade was at its height.

The Linköping Mitre: Ecclesiastical Textiles and Episcopal Identity

By Ingrid Lunnan Nødseth

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Abstract

Questions of agency have been widely discussed in art history studies in recent decades, with scholars such as Alfred Gell and W. T. Mitchell arguing that works of art possess the qualities or powers of living beings. Recent scholar¬ ship has questioned whether Max Weber’s notion of charisma as a personal quality can be extended to the realm of things such as charismatic objects or charismatic art. Textiles are particularly interesting in this regard, as clothing transforms and extends the corporal body acting as a ‘social skin’, this prob¬lematizes the human/object divide. As such, ecclesiastical dress could be con¬sidered part of the priest’s social body, his identity. The mitre was especially symbolic and powerful as it distinguished the bishop from the lower ranks of the clergy. This article examines the richly decorated Linköping mitre, also known as Kettil Karlsson’s mitre as it was most likely made for this young and ambitious bishop in the 1460s. I argue that the aesthetics and rhetoric of the Linköping mitre created charismatic effects that could have contributed to the charisma of Kettil Karlsson as a religious and political leader. This argument, however, centers not so much on charismatic objects as on the relationship between personal charisma and cultural objects closely identified with char¬ismatic authority.

THE BEADS OF TENTH- TO TWELFTH-CENTURY HUNGARY

By Katalin Szilagyi

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An examination of the beads recovered from three Hungarian cemeteries in use during the 10th to 12th century resulted in the identification of 61 distinct bead types. Seven of these were found to be significant on the basis of frequency analysis, and represent the beads most used by the local population. The study is enhanced by comparative material from a number of other contemporary archaeological sites in and around the country. The classification system developed for this study is applicable to other geographical areas and time periods, and may be expanded or otherwise modified to suit the needs of other researchers.

The trade of glass beads in early medieval Illyricum: towards an Islamic monopoly

By Elisabetta Neri, Bernard Gratuze & Nadine Schibille

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Abstract

The trade of glass beads has long been assumed to have been under Islamic dominance during the early centuries following the Arab conquest of the Middle East, judged by the prevalence of Islamic beads in the archaeological contexts from Viking Scandinavia to medieval Morocco. This paper explores the impact of the Byzantine-Slavic transition on the use and by extension trade of glass beads in the Balkans from the seventh to the ninth century CE. A series of 48 glass beads and 4 vessel fragments from two excavated sites in modern day Albania have been analysed morphologically, technologically and chemically by LA-ICP-MS. The seventh-century beads from Lezha have typological parallels among central European assemblages and are made from recycled natron-type glass. The presence of a high lead-iron-natron variant is of particular interest as it potentially reflects a regional production. The ninth-century beads from Komani are made from soda-rich plant ash glass from the eastern Mediterranean and Mesopotamia and correspond to an Islamic typology. The chronological and geographical differences are reflected in the distinctive cobalt sources used for the two groups. While the beads from Lezha are coloured with a cobalt not correlated with any particular element, the cobalt source of the Komani samples is associated with zinc, typical of Islamic glass making. It thus appears that the supply of beads during the seventh century when the Balkans were under Slavic occupation relied on regional production and recycled material, and that a long-distance trade with the eastern Mediterranean was revived following the Byzantine re-conquest of the south-eastern Adriatic in the ninth century. Intriguingly, the Albanian finds confirm the Islamic control of the production and trade of glass beads during this period and highlight the mediatory role of the Byzantine Empire.

Beads from Dorestad

By Mette Langbroek

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Intro

During most campaigns at Dorestad, a significant number of beads were excavated. In contrast to beads from Scandinavian emporia such as Ribe, the beads from Dorestad have never been studied as a complete set. Several small bead assemblages from different excavation locations in Wijk bij Duurstede have been briefly published in excavation reports , but a closer look at these beads was necessary, focusing on their use, deposition and provenance. As the publications of beads found in Scandinavian emporia show , their study can contribute significantly to our understanding of the international networks Dorestad was part of.

Beads and beadmaking in the early medieval settlement of Oegstgeest

By Mette Langbroek

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In the early medieval period, beads were available abundantly: hundreds of thousands of decorative beads have been deposited in mostly female inhumation graves across Europe dating between AD 400-750. Whereas beads are found regularly in Merovingian cemeteries, they have been excavated less often in settlements. During the excavation of the early medieval settlement at Oegstgeest, 113 beads made of glass, amber, rock crystal and faience were found, distributed over 31 features. Seventythree of these beads were found in a grave on the edge of the settlement; the rest of the beads were found in other features scattered across the settlement. Thanks to the extensive sieving campaign that was organised on site, more beads have been found than on a ‘regular’ early medieval settlement excavation. Besides the 113 lost, deposited or discarded beads, the sieving campaign also yielded overwhelming evidence for the production of amber beads. In total 781 pieces of amber bead-making waste were found distributed over 34 features in the settlement.6 This is by far the most amber-working evidence ever excavated on a Merovingian site in the Netherlands: other sites that have produced amber-bead making evidence are Utrecht-Leidsche Rijn (nine pieces of amber-working debris) and Wijnaldum (eleven pieces of amber-working debris). In this chapter, the beads and bead-making evidence found in the early medieval settlement of Oegstgeest, the exchange connections that the beads represent and the meaning of beads in Merovingian society will be discussed

Market strategies in a late medieval craft: bone bead production in Constance and elsewhere

By Thomas Spitzers

Abstract

Using technical data from a massive find of bone bead production refuse from the South German town of Constance an attempt is made to reconstruct economic strategies in a late medieval craft. An inventory of finds of the most striking remains of this craft in Central and North-West Europe, bone strips perforated with series of circular holes, provides an indication of the geographical distribution, regional differences and mechanisms behind them

Documenting Historical Beadwork

By Jonalee A. Crabb known in the SCA as Roxelana Bramante

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Intro

I have been researching beadwork for years. I have found surviving examples of beadwork in many cultures and at various times throughout history. By examining some of these surviving examples of historical beadwork and the reasons they have survived, we may be able to shed some light on exactly how prevalent beadwork was in past societies.

The German-Czech Bead Industry

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Intro:

The German bead industry is still alive, but only just. It is based out of southern Germany, in the Bavarian city of Neu Gablonz, named, of course, after Gablonz, the Bohemian city which was the capital of the Austrian bead industry during the Austrian Empire, and later Czechoslovakia, when the name was changed to Jablonec nad Nisou. The local chamber of commerce dates Jablonec back to 1356 when it was first mentioned in documents, but permanent settlement only occurred in the 16th century when a glass works was established in Mseno, which is now incorporated inside the city limits of Jablonec.

Early medieval glass beads: witness to changes in central Europe – the case of Hostivice (Czech Republic)

By Katerina Tomkova, Natalie Venclová, Sarka Krizova Jonasova, Nadine Schibille, Veronika Faltusová, Tomáš Vaculovič, David Daněček

(Link) (pdf)

Abstract

The long time period covered by the Hostivice cemeteries of the fourth century, late fifth–mid-sixth centuries and tenth century makes it possible to study the development of glass beads from the Late Roman period to the Early Middle Ages. Chemical analyses confirmed that the beads from central Europe reflect the principal transition from natron to plant ash glass during the eighth–ninth centuries. This study also shows that the beads made from natron glass were still distributed in the ninth–tenth centuries when new types of beads were made from this glass. Some of these beads are products of central European glass-working, where they occur alongside imported beads. Apart from that, high-boron glass, high-lead glass and a faience bead were also present at Hostivice in the tenth century. Limitations of chemical analysis in the study of beads related to compositional subgroups of natron glass and connected with the large scale of recycling and to the heterogeneity of opaque glass of beads are discussed. The recognition of supraregional and local types of beads, together with the synthesis of chemical and archaeological data, allowed us to characterize the reciprocal relations between chemical groups of glass and the typology and manufacturing techniques of the beads

On Beads and Boats: Merovingian beads travelling through time and space

By: Mette Langbroek

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Intro:

What do beads and boats have in common? In Merovingian Europe, just about everything. Just like boats, Merovingian beads travelled through time and space, across huge distances, into other worlds and back again.

Analysis of early medieval glass beads – Glass in the transition period

By Žiga Šmit, Timotej Knific, David Jezeršek, Janka Istenič

Published in Nuclear Instruments and Methods in Physics Research Section B: Beam Interactions with Materials and Atoms

Volume 278, Pages 1-114 (1 May 2012)

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Abstract

Glass beads from graves excavated in Slovenia and dated archaeologically to the 7th–10th century AD were analysed by the combined PIXE–PIGE method. The results indicate two groups of glass; natron glass made in the Roman tradition and glass made with alkalis from the ash of halophytic plants, which gradually replaced natron glass after c. 800 AD. The alkalis used in the second group of glass seem to be in close relation to a variant of the Venetian white glass that appeared several centuries later. The origin of this glass may be traced to glass production in Mesopotamia and around the Aral Sea. All the mosaic beads with eye decoration, as well as most of the drawn-segmented and drawn-cut beads analysed, are of plant-ash glass, which confirms their supposed oriental origin.