Tag Archives: pearls

16th Century: portrait reproduction of Vlad Dracula

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Ambras Castle portrait of Vlad III (c. 1560), reputedly a copy of an original made during his lifetime.

I normally wouldn’t include a recreated portrait, but it was supposedly based off the original, which is now lost. But I looked at that hat and thought it was worth ab mention. I personally think those rows of  pearls are actually sequins with smaller or even seed-sized pearls. I mean, come on…  It’s painted exactly how pearl studded sequins look.

This would have glittered in candlelight like a medieval disco ball!

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13th Century: mantel

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Capa Leonis. Cope, which was used during Sigismund’s coronation in 1414, Aachen Cathedral Treasury.

The magnificent choir robe is one of the most valuable textiles in the Aachen Cathedral Treasury.

Not only are the 100 silver bells that adorn the lower hem of the coat, originally made of dark red velvet, unusual, but also the decoration of the border: embroidered, silver-gilt rosettes are applied to a gold background, the centre of which is decorated with pearls or precious stones. Tiny, crocheted parrots sit on the branches and foliage that stretches like a net over the entire fabric of the border.

Local tradition sees the robe as the choir robe that Pope Leo III wore at the legendary consecration of St. Mary’s Church in Aachen in 805. The garment is definitely not that old; it probably only dates back to the 14th century. It is assumed that the robe was used at the coronation and enthronement of King Charles IV in 1349, Sigismund in 1414 and Charles V in 1520 in St. Mary’s Church in Aachen, the German coronation church.

Cologne, 14th century

(Unable to tell, but I think the “daisies” are beads or possibly french knots)

 

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12th Century: So-called bag of King Stephen of Hungary

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So-called bag of King Stephen of Hungary

Reliquary Pouch, Russian, 2nd half of the 11th / 12th century

Item link page at Vienna Art History Museum

Textile; Silk, linen, gold thread embroidery, silk embroidery, silver, gilded, topaz, pearls, garnets, glass stones / embroidered

H. 15.5 cm, W. 13.5 cm

Older tradition linked the origin of this richly embroidered bag to the person of the first Christian king of Hungary, Stephen (István) I (around 969 – 1038). According to current knowledge, the phonetic image and the orthography of the texts embroidered on the front and back in Cyrillic script indicate that textile work emerged in Russia after the middle of the 11th century, so that the bag was previously used at best to store relics from 1083 canonized ruler may have served. The actual function of the pocket-shaped container at the time of its creation has not yet been determined. An original liturgical purpose seems obvious due to the psalm texts embroidered on the back, which are known from the liturgy of the Greek rite. However, direct comparison examples are missing. The bag owes its outstanding position among the medieval works of the spiritual treasury to the fact that it is one of the oldest surviving monuments of Russian embroidery art. The front is entirely covered by gold embroidery, which encloses various medallions with colored figures in silk embroidery. Christ is enthroned in the middle, surrounded by the four archangels, a seraph and a cherub as well as Saints Basil and Nicholas. The back shows a red silk fabric into which a cross and the above-mentioned inscriptions are embroidered with gold and red, yellow and green silk. The overall effect of the embroidery, which corresponds to works of goldsmith or mosaic art, is of an exceptionally high level: there are almost 700 stitches on one square centimeter. This suggests that it was created in an important artistic center, such as one of the great Russian monasteries. The bag probably only received its current closure at the bottom edge with a metal rod and the large topaz attached, as well as the small cross made of garnets on top, in the 17th century.

Currently issued:Imperial Treasury ViennaRoom II

IMAGE RIGHTS Vienna Art History Museum, Spiritual Treasury

INV. NO. Treasury, GS Chapter 186

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11th Century: reliquary cross

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The Reich Cross, dated 1024/25, 1325

Reliquary: West German; Foot: Prague

Oak core, fabric, gold sheet, precious stones, antique cameos, pearls; RS and sides: niello, iron pin for use as a lecture cross; Foot: silver, gold-plated, enamel

Item page at Vienna Art History Museum

The Imperial Cross represents a highlight of medieval goldsmith’s art and was created during the reign of Emperor Conrad II (1024-1039). The front is densely decorated with gemstones and pearls, while the back shows a niello drawing of the twelve apostles, the apocalyptic lamb and the four evangelist symbols.

H. 77.5, W. 70.8 cm

Total height: 92.5 cm

Foot: H. 17.3 cm

Side panels: “ECCE CRVCEM DOMINI FVGIAT PARS HOSTIS INIQVI. HINC, CHVONRADE, TIBI CEDANT OMNES INIMICI”; Cross base: “ANNO MILLENO TERCIO QVINQVAGENO SECVNDO KAROLVS AVGVSTVS ROMANVS REXQVE BOHEMVS HOC LIGNVM DOMINI TALI PEDE SIC DECORAVIT”

Like the imperial crown, the imperial cross is also filled with deep symbolic meaning. First of all, it is a symbol of Christian triumph, since Christ overcame his death on the cross through the resurrection. Since Emperor Constantine won his victory at the Milvian Bridge (312) under the protection of the cross, the cross was also considered a national emblem of the Roman Empire, an idea that was consciously continued by Charlemagne and to which the Ottonian and Roman Empire also relied early Salal rulers. The Imperial Cross can therefore be interpreted as a sign of Christian triumph, victory and imperial representation. It is part of a series of famous imperial foundations, at the beginning of which is a jeweled triumphal cross (crux gemmata), which Theodosius II had erected on Golgotha ​​Hill before 450. The Imperial Cross is not only a triumphant crux gemmata, but also a relic container. Parts of the front can be removed in panels and reveal the recesses inside in which the imperial relics were once kept: in the cross arm the Holy Lance (inv. no. SK_WS_XIII_19) and in the shaft the cross particles (inv. no. SK_WS_XIII_20) . These extremely valuable passion relics were considered a pledge of the “royal salvation” and the victorious power of the ruler. The meaning of the relics finds a perfect correspondence in the shape of the shell that contains them, which surpasses all secular symbols of power in terms of symbolic power.

Vienna Art History Museum, Secular Treasury

INV. NO. Treasury, WS XIII 21, Imperial Treasury ViennaRoom 11

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13th Century: Fredrick II Gloves

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Gloves of the Holy Roman Emperor, Frederick II

Early 13th century, before 1220
Vienna, Weltliche Schatzkammer

Circumference of the wrist opening: 24 (25) cm Length from the wrist to the point of the middle finger: 25.5 (27) cm

Read More

OBJECT LOCATION: Imperial Treasury Vienna, room 10

OBJECT LABEL Textile; liturgical garment; coronation regalia

CULTURE; PalermoDATING; before 1220

DIMENSIONS; L. 26.3 or 27.7 cm, W. 12 cm

INVENTORY NO. Treasury, WS XIII 11

Some Images kindly provided by Prof Michael Greenhalgh, and Kunsthistorisches Museum Vienna, Secular Treasury

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17th Century: Purple velvet purse

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Purse of purple velvet, comprising four sides bearing alternately the crowned monogram ‘DG’ or ‘ML’ or two intertwined hands under a burning heart, embroidered with multicolored silk, gold thread, pearls, sequins and rubies, anonymous, c. 1600 – c. 1625
Rijksmuseum – more info

(Google translated) Purple velvet Pouch, consisting of four chips on which alternately the crowned monogram ‘DG’ or ‘ML’ or two entwined hands under a burning heart, embroidered with multicolored silk, gold thread, pearls, lovers and rubies. Model: Each patte ends in tip and has five holes through which a cord of braided silk – ending in spheres and acorns – is pulled through. Lined with red silk; now fades to pink. Decoration: in the middle of each fries a shield at the top ending in a tip and crowned with a floral ornament of (originally gilded?) Silver canetille, freshwater pearls and a ruby in the middle. At the bottom, the shield flares into a point and the same lines form two curls in which a violet is made up of (gilt?) Silver canetille, freshwater pearls and a ruby in the middle. A monogram of freshwater pearls and gold thread is embroidered under a three-point crown. The seams between the different pattes are covered with a trimming of braided gold wire. The purse ends at the bottom center in a stepped ornament of braided gold wire (probably around a wooden core) ending in four braids with a ball. The drawstring ends in acorns and balls of braided gold wire

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15th Century: Crib of the Infant Jesus

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Crib of the Infant Jesus

15th century, South Netherlandish

The pillow and blanket of the crib, are embroidered with with gold work, enameled pieces and pearl work.
Made in Brabant, South Netherlands

Met Museum NYC, Gift of Ruth Blumka, in memory of Leopold Blumka, 1974 Accession Number: 1974.121a–d

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17th Century: beaded silk purse

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Beads and pearls embroidered on silk, on both sides, 6×6 inches. English.

From: The Needle’s Excellency and Other Textiles (Publisher: Mallett, London, 1997)

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17th Century: Drawstring Bag, 1610-1650

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Drawstring bag

English, 1610–50

Item info from: https://collections.mfa.org/objects/119711

DESCRIPTION: Red silk satin embroidered with gold metallic threads, seed pearls, metal purl, spangles, and bits of colored glass. Baroque design. Embroidery stitches include laid and couching, beading, bullion knots, braid stitch. Green and metallic braided cords and strap at top; two wood-core drawstring pull tassels covered in seed pearls, with silk, metallic thread and spangles. Green silk lining.
PROVENANCE: Ex-Seligman Coll. (London); Elizabeth Day McCormick collection; Gift to the MFA, October 14, 1943
DIMENSIONS: Overall (without tassels and cord): 6 x 6 cm (2 3/8 x 2 3/8 in.)
CREDIT LINE: The Elizabeth Day McCormick Collection
ACCESSION NUMBER: 4:3.1080

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17th Century: Portrait of a lady with an elaborate jewelled headdress

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Spanish School, 17th Century
Portrait of a lady with an elaborate jewelled headdress
oil on canvas
28 x 22 in. (71.1 x 55.9 cm.)

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16th Century: Ventian purse

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Translation via Google Translate:

Purse

Venice, end of the 16th century.
13x8x6 cm.

Cut velvet dark green silk embroidered in silver-gilt and silver yarn and curly, pearls, the application technique, the technique of blue silk satin stitch, silver sequins. Suspension and borders in gilt silver cord twisted yarn. Pink taffeta lining. The bag, unusual shape, could fulfill most uses: purses, comosuggests chuisa front pocket with a cord, door dust orportaprofumi. Wisely suspended the waist of the dress, very much in vogue, the ‘bag-shaped lute “and very valuable both for the quality of the embroidery and the richness of the materials for setting stistica.The plant motifs that adorn every part of the accessory are made with grace and richness of details highlighted by the many pearls placed in various parts in order to highlight the preziosita. This refined accessory, which certainly emphasized the sumptuousness of a ceremonial dress, it was probably a gift love, how can suggest two hearts pierced by two arrows, according to a custom widespread in the Renaissance.

The original description, in Italian:

BORSA

Venezia, fine del XVI secolo.
Cm. 13x8x6

Velluto tagliato di seta verde scuro ricamato in argento dorato e argento filato e riccio, perle, nella tecnica di applicazione; seta azzurra nella tecnica del punto raso; pailettes d’argento. Sospensione e bordure in cordoncino intrecciato d’argento dorato filato. Fodera in taffetas rosa acceso. La borsa, forma insolita, poteva assolvere a piu usi: portamonete, como suggerisce la tasca anteriore chuisa da un cordoncino, porta polveri o portaprofumi. Sapientemente sospesa alla cintura dell’abito, come imponeva la moda, la “borsetta a forma di liuto” e alquanto preziosa sia per la qualita del ricamo e la richezza dei materiali che per l’impostazione stistica. I motivi fitomorfi che ornano ogni parte dell’accessorio sono stati realizzati con grazia e ricchezza di particolari evidenziati dalle numerose perle collocate in varie parti per sottolinearne la preziosita.Questo raffinatissimo accessorio, che certo ribadiva la sontuosita di un abito cerimoniale, probabilmente era un dono d’amore, come possono suggerire i due cuori trafitti da due frecce, secondo un’usanza molto diffusa nell’epoca rinascimentale.

© I Mestieri della moda a Venezia dal XIII al XVIII Secolo. Ala Napoleonica E Museo Correr, Venice. 1988.

 

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17th Century: purple velvet pouch

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Purse of purple velvet, consisting of four pattes on which alternately the crowned monogram ‘DG’ or ‘ML’ or two entwined hands under a burning heart, embroidered with multicolored silk, gold thread, pearls, spangles and rubies, anonymous, c. 1600 – c. 1625

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17th Century: Game Bag

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Embroidered game bag: silk, silver, and gold on velvet (Dresden 1609)

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16th C Pearled Panels

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(The last three pics seem to be from a third panel i can so far not find a whole pic of)

From: https://archive.org/details/geschichtederli03bock/page/89/mode/1up?view=theater

Bild 37.
Albenparura. Prag, Domschatz.(Aus Podlaha u. Sittler, Der Domschatz zu Prag) ist bloß eine mit einem solchen ausgestattet, die aus der Neustädter St Johannes-Kirche zu Hannover stammende, mit M. XX 6 bezeichnete Albe im Pro-vinzialmuseum daselbst. Die Bordüre setzt sich aus Vierpässen zusammen,Welche mit einem Wappenschild gefüllt sind und durch Blattwerk voneinandergeschieden werden. Bemerkenswert ist, daß aber auch hier in der Mitte desSaumes die Paruren nicht fehlen. In der Neuzeit ging es den Albenparuren ähnlich wie dem Besatz desAmiktes. Während indessen bei letzterem die Verzierung ganz aufhörte, be-

Bild 38.
AlbeDparura. Prag, Domschatz.(Aus Podlaha u. Sittler, Der Domschatz zu Prag.) 90 Erster Abschnitt. Die liturgischen Untergewänder. gann bei der Albe eine rückläufige Bewegung, indem wieder Vollbordürenan Stelle der Paruren traten. Ein gutes Beispiel einer solchen Albe, eine Schöpfung des 16. Jahr-hunderts, findet sich in der ehemaligen Stiftskirche zu Goß in Steiermark.Der breite Besatz, der sich um den ganzen Eand derselben hinzieht, ist teilsin mehrfarbiger Seide teils in Goldstickerei ausgeführt1. Im allgemeinen hielt das Außermodekommen der Alben- und Amiktparuragleichen Schritt, wie sie ja auch so ziemlich zur gleichen Zeit aufgetretenwaren und in gleichem Maß sich verbreitet hatten. Freilich auch nur imallgemeinen. Denn wie wir noch gegen Ende des 16. Jahrhunderts dort Amikt-besätze antreffen, wo die Zierstücke der Alben, wie es scheint, schon außerGebrauch gekommen waren, so begegnen uns umgekehrt diese hie und danoch, nachdem jene bereits eine Weile von de

 

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16th Century: Portrait of Hedwig Jagiello

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Hedwig Jagiello (1513-1573)

Hedwig Jagiello was born on March 15., 1513 in poznań and died on February 7., 1573 She was a polish princess from 1535 to 1535 until 1535

Hedwig was the daughter of the king of Poland. From Poland from his marriage to Barbara references, daughter of hungarian pala and magnet Stephan references.

She married on 1. September 1535 in krakow on 1. September 1535 in Krakow. Four children were born four children:

• Elisabeth (born). 1537; gesture. He married Duke Franz Otto, married to Duke Franz Otto of Brunswick-Lüneburg (Born 1595). 1530; gesture. 1559
• Sigismund (born). 1538; gesture. 1566), Prince of Brandenburg, Archbishop of magdeburg and bishop of Berlin
• Hedwig (born). 1540; gesture. 1602), princess of Brandenburg, married to Duke Julius of Brunswick-Wolfenbüttel
• Sophia (born). 1541; gesture. 1564), princess of Brandenburg, married to Wilhelm Von Rosenberg

The Strictly Catholic Princess held on her faith, even when her husband turned to Lutheran teaching and began the reformation in Brandenburg. Joachim had released his wife to accept the new marriage or to remain faithful to the old man.

She accompanied her husband in 1541 to regensburg in 1541 When Joachim accepted Luther’s teaching, she remained with her catholic faith in her Catholic Faith, which gave her the spouse after interventions from Krakow.

After the death of Joachim II. In 1571 she lived at the castle of ruppin castle in old ruppin. She died there at the age of 59 on February 7., 1573.

.
Source:
Www. Gene. Org
Www. Berlin-the capital. They
Www. DB-Thueringen. They
(Digital Library Thuringia)
Www Yes Wow! PL
(German Historical Institute Warsaw)
Www. Universes-Mercatores-of-Hansa-Theutonicorum. From
(Universitatis Jagellonica Cracoviensis acta scientiarum)

Literature:
– Johann Dorner: Duchess Hedwig and her court state: everyday life at the castle castle according to original sources of the 15. th century, volume 53 of Burgundy’s history leaves
– Juliane Jacobi: Pre-Modern Education: Self-and foreign descriptions in the early modern period (contributions to historical education research, volume 41), page 216, ISBN 10: 9783412204921 AND ISBN 13: 978-3412204921

Image: Hedwig Princess of brandenburg at 1535, portrayed by Hans Krell (1490-1565)

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16th Century: Portraits of sisters, and family.

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Family Portrait of Armgard and Walburgis, Countesses of Rietberg and parents, Count John II of Rietberg and Agnes of Bentheim-Steinfurt in Rietberg. Piece was mutilated in 19th-century and reassembled from 3 pieces.Detail: Armgard and Walburgis, Countesses of Rietberg
Portraits by Tom Ring

 

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16th Century: Portraits of Barbara Radziwill

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Barbora Radvilaitė; 6 December 1520/23 – 8 May 1551) was Queen of Poland and Grand Duchess of Lithuania

More Portraits of  Barbara Radziwill

This is a unique case, being her clothing is so unique and she appears to have many different pieces of this cowl as well as other beadwork so I decided to lump her all into one page.

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16th Century: German-Saxon Portrait

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Hans Krell (before 1586). 16th C: Early German-Saxon (Cranach) Gown

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15th Century: Mantle of the Order of the Golden Fleece

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THE VESTMENTS OF THE ORDER OF THE GOLDEN FLEECE

Netherlands, Brussels (?), second and third quarter of the 15th century
Vienna, Schatzkammer A complete set for a chapel:
two hangings for the altar, i.e. frontal and dossal (Frontier, Dossier).

Both 117 x 327 cm; chasuble, 147 x 131 cm; dalmatic and tuncile, both 154 x 125 cm; three large copes, each 164 x 330 cm Stout linen ground. The frames of the pictorial panels are of red velvet with gold bands. Embroidery in gold thread, pearls, topazes, sapphires. Coloured silks in a great variety of shades; red, bluish, pink, brownish red, carmine, flame red, blue in various shades, apple green shading to olive green, ochre, lilac, violet, greyish brown, and various shot tones. Or nue’; heads and hands in needle painting; split and satin stitches and couched work. Each of the panels were then sewn together and framed with the gold borders. Extraordinarily good state of preservation. The age of the work is apparent only in the occasional detachment of the embroidery from the background, some loose threads and very slight losses of pearls.

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15th Century: Portrait

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Petrus Christus – Portrait of a Young Woman [c.1470]

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15th Century: Kloster Ebstorf Panels

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15th Century: Montecassino mitre

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Photo credit: http://thefarsight2.blogspot.com/2009/11/mighty-mitres.html

 

A 15th-century mitra preciosa that was commissioned by Pope Leo X. From the treasury of Montecassino.

 

Photo credit: http://thefarsight2.blogspot.com/2009/11/mighty-mitres.html

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16th Century: Portrait

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Portrait of a woman, possibly by Conrad Faber von Kreuznach, early 16th century

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16th Century: Portrait

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Portrait of Hedwig Jagiellon, Electress of Brandenburg by Hans Krell, ca. 1537 (PD-art/old), Jagdschloss Grunewald; most probably portrayed in her wedding dress with monogram S of her father Sigismund I of Poland on sleeves

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16th Century: Portrait

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Portrait of a Woman | Bartholomew Bruyn (the Elder) (Art) | Image Index of Art & Architecture

https://www.bildindex.de/document/obj05011068?part=0&medium=koeln_2579017

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17th Century: Reliquary Crown of St Walburga

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Ironing crown (belongs to the head reliquary of St. Walburga)

 

Location: Scheer, Catholic parish church of St. Nicholas & former collegiate church
Date:1601/1700

Item:Krone
Genus:Applied Arts

Material / Technique:enamel, pearl, gemstone

Link to this page:https://www.bildindex.de/document/obj20745011

Record of:Bildarchiv Foto Marburg

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13th Century: Halberstadt Mitre

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12th Century Halberstadt Catherdral Mitre

Info from : http://www.lda-lsa.de

A mitra with animal symbolism from the Halberstadt cathedral treasure

The bishop’s headdress from the Halberstadt cathedral treasure embroidered on the most sumptuous of pearls impressively demonstrates the magnificence of the medieval church service as well as the great craftsmanship of contemporary textile art. The Mitra is almost completely preserved except for two formerly hanging on the back, wide bands and looks amazingly fresh in the color of the jewelry elements. In addition to gilded jewelery sheets and colored stones in golden versions, the variety of small pearls made of red coral, colorful glass flows and gilded metal and combined with river pearls is particularly impressive.

For a long time it was thought that these pearls were imported. However, there is evidence that freshwater pearl mussels were more abundant in native waters before being almost completely eradicated by depletion in the 18th century. Therefore, for the Lower Saxony beadwork – to which the Mitra belongs – pearls from the provenances of the Lüneburg Heath may well have been used.

The background for the beadwork, which is embroidered on pattern-precise parchment, is a thin gold foil. The two decorative bands, called Circulus and Titulus, are particularly broad and elaborate on this Miter . Horizontally, the Mitra move around many entwined tendrils with vine leaves, into which two quadruple-shaped medallions are integrated on the front and back. In miniature they depict representations of medieval animal symbolism, which was recorded in the compendium of the Physiologus, which has been immensely popular since early Christian times: On the detail illustration of the obverse, an eagle flies out of its nest with a young bird in its capture.

In the interpretation of salvation history, the eagle Christ immediately approaches the sun, the symbol of God, to whom he feeds a human child. In the neighboring medallion, the pelican, animating and nurturing the young with his blood, is shown. On the opposite side, the Phoenix rises from its ashes with its wings spread wide , and a lion bends over its still-born, unbroken boy to bring it to life with his breath . All four motifs are allegories of the resurrection of Christ and symbolize the Christian hope of the resurrection of the dead. This central content of faith finds a visible expression in a special way in the celebration of Easter, for which occasion the precious miter was probably determined.

Text: Dorothee Honekamp-Könemann
Internet: Dorothee Menke

 

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12th Century: Pearled Cushion

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Pearled Cushion, Germany
Assuming 12th Century

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12th Century Byzantine pearled decorative circle

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372361155_1af5e3c974_o

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11th Century: Reliquary Bag with plaques and pearls

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Reliquienbeutel, Trier, around 993

IN GERMAN: “Beutel für eine Kreuzreliquie, Vorderseite, Stickerei mit Perlen, vergoldeten Appliken und Spiralknoten. Trier, nm 993. Nürnberg, Germanisches Nationalmuseum (KG 562)
Auch noch aus dem späten 10.Jahrhundert stammt der mit bunter Seide in Ketten-, Stiel- und versetztem Flachstich auf Leinen gestickte Alexanderflug in Würzburg, der dort lange mit der großen bemalten seidenen Kiliansfahne verbunden gewesen ist.

Der wohl von Anfang an für Hildesheim bestimmte, wahrscheinlich aber noch in Trier um 993 gearbeitete Beutel für eine Kreuzreliquie in Germanischen Nationalmuseum, Nürnburg, ist aus rotem, ungermustertem Samit. Auf seiner Vorderseite wirkt die Aufnäharbeit mit Perlenkränzen um vergoldete Appliken in Kreuz- und Herzform, teilweise mit eingelassenen Glasflüssen, rot gefärbtem Bernstein oder gefaßten Almandinen sowie mit vier Goldspiralknoten wie Goldschmiedewerk, während auf der Rückseite Goldfäden in versenkter Anlegetechnik verarbeitet sind.


IN ENGLISH (translated via internet):

Bags for a Kreuzreliquie, front, embroidery with beads, gilded Appliken and spiral knots. Trier, Nm 993. Nuernberg, Germanic national museum (kg of 562) Also still from the late 10. century originates the Alexanderflug in peppering castle, gestickte with multicolored silk in chains -, handle and transferred flat pass on linen, which was connected for a long time with the large painted be-being those Kiliansfahne there.

Probably from the outset for Hildesheim the determined, probably however still in Trier around 993 bags worked for a Kreuzreliquie in Germanic national museum, Nuernburg, is from red, ungermustertem Samit. Its front the sewing on work with bead rings affects around gilded Appliken in cross and heart form, partly with let in glass rivers, red colored amber or calm Almandinen as well as with four gold spiral knots such as gold forging work, while on the back gold threads are finished in sunk putting on technology.

Bag for a cross relic, front, embroidery with pearls, gilded Appliken and Spiralknoten. Trier, nm 993rd Nuremberg, germanic national museum (KG 562)
Also yet out of the late 10. century the Alexanderflug embroidered with colorful silk in chains, handle and staggered flat sting on lines in Würzburg, that comes painted been is there long with the large silk Kiliansfahne connected.

That probably from the beginning for Hildesheim determined, probably however yet in Trier around 993 worked bags for a cross relic in germanic national museums, Nürnburg, is out of red, ungermustertem Samit. On its front, the Aufnäharbeit with pearl wreaths influences gilded around Appliken in Kreuz- and heart form, partial with admitted glass rivers, red colored amber or calm Almandinen as well as with four Goldspiralknoten as well as gold smith work, during the back gold threads in sunk designed technology processed are.

Thanks to Roxelana Bramante for her typing this for me.

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12th Century: Roger II Dalmatic

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DALMATIC , PART OF THE INSIGNIA OF THE HOLY ROMAN EMPIRE
Sicily, Palermo, Royal Workshop, 1130 – 1140, Period of King Roger II.
Viuenna, Weltliche Schatzkammer
Cuff: 21 cm wide.
Lower border: 21 cm wide

The robe has the shape of a tunicella with a narrow upper part, long sleeves that taper towards the edge and a skirt that expands towards the hem with side gussets.
Both the blue – with madder and Waid dyed – unbleached base fabric as well as the red, patterned trim of the hem and the cuffs is Samit (scratched silk). Above and below, the wide hem border is bounded by double pearl cords. Gold embroidery in sunk planting technique adorns this border with lilies and palmette shapes. The technical implementation of the embroidery is so close to that of the coronation mantle that one can assume a simultaneous emergence.
A special feature is the embroidery of the cuffs: pearl strings framing palmette motifs whose inner surfaces are filled with gold tubes, which were flattened after sewing. This technique is, as far as we know, unique. The lower edge of the cuffs are decorated with violin-shaped, densely juxtaposed appliqués with gathered cellular enamel, which are stylistically and technically so similar to the mounts on the coronation mantle that there is no doubt about a connection between the two garments.

The neckline of the robe is covered with a 3 cm wide Brettchenborte, which is contoured by means of individually sewn beads. This border is the same as it was sewed on the Alba.
For the first time clearly identifiable the robe appears as a “blue skirt” in a document of the year 1350, with the transfer of the treasury to Charles IV is confirmed, but may well in the mention of a “Rock of Samit” in the inventory of 1246 also already recognize the tunicella.
The tunicella was worn at the coronation under the Alba

Text From: http://www.khm.at/de/objektdb/detail/100470/

The dalmatic is of deep purple silk. The apparles illustrated, however, – a cuff and the lower border – are made of a silk material resembling that of the Coronation Mantle. The gold thread is underside couched, but on the cuff the gold is in the form of minute tubes with the couching thread passed through them. Pearls, gold plaques, enamels and filigree work. According to Fillitz the garment may belong to the same set of vestments as the Coronation Mantle.

Lit.: H. Fillitz, Die Insignien und Kleinodien des Heiligen Romischen Reiches. Vienna-Munich 1954, p. 58, Figs. 27, 28 – P. E. Schramm and F. Mutherich, Denkmale der deutschen Kinige und Kaiser, Munich 1962, p. 182, No. 181

Source: Schuette, Marie and Sigrid Muller-Christensen: Pictorial History of Embroidery ; NY: Frederick Praeger, 1964.

Deep Purple Silk Dalmatic of 1130-40
Cuff detail of the deep purple silk dalmatic of 1130-40 from the insignia of the Holy Roman Empire. It is a product of the royal workshops of Roger II in Palermo. Minute golden tubes fill the pearl motifs whilst the sumptuous effect is increased by the use of large coloured enamel motifs.

From: “Medieval Craftsmen: Embroiderers,” by Kay Staniland, University of Toronto Press, 1991, p. 46. ISBN: 0-8020-6915-0

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