Sometimes as you begin to couch the rows of beads will
kinda of grow, expanding ever so slightly as the thread
adds some bulk to the line.
You might be able to tell that one of these here needs
Now, don't panic this is easy. I mean how do you think
you're going to do this? Undo possibly hundreds of stitches
-don be silly!
Poke at the beads a bit and see which one is the beast
candidate, beds, no matter how even they look, are all
differently sized, a thinner one may be all you need
to make the room, kill a larger one and you might have
a gap, so pick the right one.
Use your needle to pull them forward and look how the
rest sit, When you find the one that "needs killin"
stick a straight pin or even your bead needle through
Grip the bead with needlenose pliers.
Try to go ALONG the thread not across it. - song the
needle if you can like shown, otherwise you could cut
the thread with the glass shards, but that is what the
needle is for, to protect the thread form being driven
down on by the pliers and the glass, as well as help
you get at it.
You may at some point have to grip it the other way,
along the rounded sides of the bead, at an angle from
the needle, in that case just be careful.
When you go to snap the pliers
shut and crack the bead off cup your free hand or lay
a cloth/kleenex over the work. The glass WILL fly. I've
had it shoot in my eye before, so covering it's escape
route is good idea. You could wear goggles, but you'd
look silly, just keep a scrap of cloth in your kit for
this, much easier.
real problems is tension.
a hoop and keep the material as tight a possible.
(Bouncing quarters tight)
from the center of your design to the outside, doing
the other ways could cause your piece to "bowl"
or pucker. Fill in areas the same way.
the string until you turn blue, most of the time
and firm tug to pass the crack of the beads is usually
enough. This is something you learn in time. Pulling
too much will make your piece bow upwards, convex...
with practice you'll learn, and you're piece will
flatten. Practice make perfect, you ought to see
my first pieces.
* TIPS: (or stuff I learned the hard way)
beads. Buying Czech beads will help immensely, the
cost is actually the same as the cheapo Taiwan beads
available in crafts stores. Czechs are more uniform,
the cheapos are odd in size and shape and sometimes
color within the same bag. 8 or 10 grams of cheapos
are like 99 cents at your craft store. 40 gr., or
there abouts, of czechs are like $2.99.
ink to draw designs, use pencil, always, use colored
pencil even, NEVER USE INK, it will bleed and make
you curse the heavens.
your drawn lines. If you bead line falls a bit short
fine, but don't over shoot it, it will widen after
the couching is done, and you may find you even
need to remove beads from one end that is now too
long and wants to draw up on you.
sure lines of beads lie flat to begin with, no bowing
of the lines, this will make your job easier from
beading floss or the premium sewing threads that
are 100% long grain polyester, usually the more
expensive ones. Not much more expensive, but they
are worth it. Regular thread like Coats and Clark
will fray on you sometimes in as little as three
passes. I can work a good thread the very end god
to either match the beads or the material. Matching
the beads will result in a more solid look, matching
the fabric will give you a more mosaic look.
pieces before (to remove pencil lines) or after
attaching to garments I suggest a fabric wash sack
. For small items merely tossing them in a sock
and tying the top will work to protect the machine
as well as the beads. For garb I say spend a few
bucks (or use scrap material) and make a muslin
or T-shirt drawstring bag, just shove the it in
and knot it, throw it in and wash it. This is to
mainly make, sure the beads don't grind on the metal
sides of the washer.