First off I can't say enough about using
the righ thread. That said, Coast and Clark,
while being a FINE machine thread, has no place
in a bead tool box. It simply can't handle being
drug through glass over and over. Glas beads
while they may appear smooth, have microscopic
teeth almost, the poly/cotton simply can't handle
100%nylon NYMO brand style beading thread, which
come in copious colors and thicknesses, or use
the more expensive sewing thread in your local
fabric shop, those european ones of 100% long
price at $2 or less for a under 200 yards. The
brands I use are Molnyke or Mettler Metrosene.
the 100% poly stuff last SOOOO much longer,
you'll thank me later. Trust me, I've had Coats
and Clark break after three stitches, I'm trying
to teach you to not make my mistakes.
rarely break or fray using them like I did when
I used Coats & Clark.The thread goes a long
way so just bite down and buy it, it'll last
years, and most times you can use it to the
end of the string.
stickum AKA Sortkwik:
Threading needles, pulling thread and rolling
knots -after you are doing hours of it can make
your fingers all sore, and especially if you are
licking them all the time to manage your thread.
This paper sorting helper can be gotten any ANY
office supply store and should be in every bead
Never eyball a straight line, soetimes pulling
the fabric as you have to will sckew straight
lines, keep redrawing it with a stiff ruler. I
use a six inch as it fits better in my box.
ALWAYS use pencil, never ever use a pen, it
can and will most probably bleed.
In time if you can draw it with a mechanical
pencil, taking in to coinsideration bead widths,
then you can bead it.The eraser also works
somewhat on cloth if the mark is ligh enough.
If you have colored cloth use a colored pencil,
so it will wash out.
If you say really change you mind on a finished
section that is partially or even totally secured
down, do not despair, just hold the scissors
against the cloth and clip across it, under
the beads like you were trimming hedges. It
will cut the securing threads, and keep your
lacing stitchs intact, and you can literally
peel off the beads like a bandaid. It's cool.
DONT use a Seam Ripper unlless your a VERY sure
hand, one false move and you'll cut the fabric
as well as the thread.
and rubber needle puller:
Sometimes pulling a needle through can be tough,
hole sizes can vary. Both these help, putyou
thumb over the bead in question HARD and pull
or push the needle through. Putting pressure
on the bead seems to help keep the bead from
cracking, if it does, don't despair, tack down
the thread that went through and then out a
new one in and wthen quickly lace it to the
beads to either side.
Well duh! But unlike my thread rant, I DO
prefer coats & Clark bead needles (they
have a yellow tab). They are only 80 cents
or so for 4 needles in two sizes at Walmart
or most fabirc or craft stores.
They BEND, and don't break, and that'sa
GOOD thing. Always save the bent needles,
they come in handy and are oftimes more comfortable
and easier to use.
British needles, while highly acalimed seem
to be more brittle, I once used a pack of
20 on ONE medallion . They just kept snapping.
But if you DO want to buy Brit needles, I
like PONY over JOHN JAMES. They bend more.
A pack of 20 brits come in a little envelope
and go for about $5.
More often then not you will lose needles
by breakage at the eye. I sometimes pitch
them for losing plating at the tip, it just
feels odd popping though the fabric that way.